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Day 18. Boadilla del Camino to Carrion de los Condes

Saturday 25th May 2013

25 km - 6.5 hrs

 

Starting at 7 a.m., the first part of the walk was along the Canal de Castilla to Fromista, which took just over an hour. The path crosses the canal at the old locks just outside Fromista.After breakfast in a local bar, I took time to have a look around the Church of San Martin, Fromista, which is a 11th century Romanesque church famous for its clean lines and simplicity. Leaving Fromista you are presented with a choice, either carry on alongside the main road (the original route) or take an alternative route which goes across field to Villovieco. You then have the choice of continuing to Villalcazar via the country route, or turning left to rejoin the road at Villarmentereo de Campos. I took this alternative route, but returned to the road at Villarmentero.

 

Sunlight on the church as I left Boadilla del Camino early morning

Along the canal to Fromista

The canal locks at Fromista

Looking back up the canal from the locks

 

 

San Martín de Tours church in Frómista, was uuilt in the 11th century in Romanesque style, it is located across the Way of Santiago. The church was begun in the second half of the 11th century by will of queen Mayor of Castile, as part of a monastery, which has disappeared. The church is mentioned for the first time in 1066, and is stylistically connected to other Romanesque edifices in the province, such as the Cathedral of Jaca. In 1118 it was assigned to the Benedictine priory of San Zoilo at Carrión de los Condes. The monks abandoned the site in the 13th century, giving it to Don Juan Gómez de Manzanedo. During several changes of ownership in the following centuries, the church received several additions in the 15th century: a bell tower over the original dome, and other units which acted as sacristy. After the Middle Ages it started to decay, and in the 19th century it was declared no more fit for celebrations.

In 1894 it was declared a National Monument and a restoration was started. This brought the church back to its original state, removing numerous later additions. The church was reopened to the public in 1904.

St. Martin has a typical Romanesque exterior. The three-level façade shows the difference height of the nave and aisles of the interior; at the sides are two cylindrical bell towers, while, in correspondence of the crossing, is an octagonal dome. The nave and the aisle, covered with barrel vaults, end with three apses.
The church has four entrances, one for each of its sides. However, only two are currently opened. The walls have a solid appearance, with few windows enclosed in rounded arches. All the four sides are topped by some 300 modillions with human, animals and fantastic figures, including some erotic scenes. Above the main portal is a chrismon with six arms.The interior is on the basilica plan, with four bays separated by piers. The apses have several medieval sculptures, including a 13th century Christ in the nave. Some of the capitals have motifs of vegetables, human figures or depictions of stories, such as that of Adam and Eve or the Fox and the Grape.

 

 

The 11 century Church of Saint Martin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving Fromista

 

The alternative route to avoid the road

Nice open countryside

Poppies

Villovieco

Local resident Pepe handing out sweets to perigrinos and offering a "sellos" stamp for Villovieco.

Pepe's message in my book "Do the Right Thing, Be Humble, and The Father Will Protect You"

Cross on the P-980 road

The road between Villarmentero de Campos and Villalcazar de Sirga.
That's Michelle ahead of me, going like a train as usual!

Approaching Villalcazar de Sirga

 

 

Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca

It is a church from the transition Romanesque to Gothic period. Of note is the double southern front, with sculptures of the Pantocrator, Tetramorphs and Apostles. Also of interest is the chapel of St. James, from the early 14th century, which houses the tomb of the Infante Don Felipe and his wife Doña Leonor Ruíz de Castro. This Church houses the White Virgin to whom Alfonso X the Wise sung in his 'Cantigas'. It was one of the most important religious centres along the Pilgrim's Road to Santiago de Compostela.

 

 

Villalcazar is the home of the magnificent Templar church of Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca,
13th century and housing the tombs of nobles and royalty.

 

 

 

 

Doing the "touristy things" brings light relief from the slog of walking long distances

 

Entering Carrion de Los Condes

 

12th century Iglesia de Santa Maria

 

 

 

Yet another stork resident on a church tower

In the evening I joined Jane and Digby for a perigrino meal at the restaurant Hostal Los Corte; Lena (Jutland, Denmark) was on the next table and joined us.

 

 

Accommodation Notes

 

I had intended to stay at the Albergue Santa Clara but got confused and ended up at Albergue Espiritu Santo run by nuns. Actually it was a fortuitous mistake as the albergue was really good and had single beds instead of bunk beds!

 

 

 

 

Albergue Espiritu Santo courtyard

Wouldn't it be lovely if all albergues were like this!